And All That Jazz

"If you have to ask what jazz is, you'll never know."

Louis Armstrong

Legendary US Jazz Trumpeter

There is a man named Ahmed sitting nonchalantly across the table from me at a bustling jazz cafe in Koregon Park in Pune. Smoke from nargiles in the far corner slowly permeates the air, drifting up to the wooden, tent-like ceiling decorated in intricate Persian carpets. Vintage style photographs on the wall feature such jazz greats as Herbie Hancock, and waiters create space in between tightly packed tables and sagging wicker chairs. Onstage, a German expatriate is performing a song by Miles Davis with an American bassist and an Indian drummer. It is Thursday night, and here at the jazz cafe called Sheesha's is the center of life for the growing Pune jazz scene. Ahmed had been involved in organizing jazz performances in the same group as JJ, and as I looked on at the avant garde patrons I heard him speaking above the music and animated conversations. "The people who have talent play," he mused evenly. "Those who have no talent, organize."

JJ and his jazz-loving entourage were at it again. Filled to capacity and buzzing with appreciation, Shisha's was the ideal atmosphere for the jazz enthusiast. JJ was greeted warmly by many of the staff and patrons, and my parents, who arrived in Pune last Monday, and I were quickly introduced to a number of individuals involved in the jazz community. We took our seats at the best table in the house and listened and talked in the comfortable, relaxed ambience of Pune's best cafe. 

At half past ten, my father joined the band onstage and performed a few popular numbers that ended in boisterous applause of an excited audience. "One more!" shouted a patron from the rear, after they had finished. 

"Five more!" countered Ahmed. Though my father was only onstage for a few songs, it was a spectacular debut performance in front of an Indian audience, and one that will certainly never be forgotten in our family. Cueing the guitarist, the band and my father launched into Blue Bossa for an encore that had the whole house moving. That night concluded my parents' visit to India, and once again we said our goodbyes. During the past academic year my parents have visited me at each new location, in Madrid, Brussels, and now Pune. I must acknowledge my own personal happiness that they experienced some of the best parts of India, as there is no way to describe it to one who has not observed firsthand the beauty and grace that so aptly characterize this irresistible country. India is the revival of jazz and the impersonators of Elvis. India is the kamikaze auto-rickshaw drivers that fly through intersections into gridlocked traffic without so much as a scratch. India is the temples, the forts, the colors, sights, and smells. India is the painted elephants and idle camels ambling leisurely along the intercity highways. And India is a diversity in unity that exists in a unique way that separates it from all else. But most importantly, India is its people, who experience the beauty and the madness firsthand every day of their lives. 

I have no doubt that I should be abundantly grateful to my parents for instilling their spirit of adventurism in me, and for enabling me to have such profound and enlightening experiences throughout different parts of the world. There is a saying in India of visitors from foreign lands: "There are two types of foreigners: those who have been to India, and those who haven't." With my parents now members of the former, they and I have again added to our global awareness of peoples from distinct and dynamic societies. We have observed the gentle warmth of my Indian host family, the immense support of the program staff, and the general goodwill of individuals such as JJ and his wife, who have gone far out of their way to ensure my own comfort and security. When it comes time to leave this beautiful country, I know that I will be reluctant to depart and eager to someday return. My life in India is surrounded in color  and sound, and to come back to this chaotic and surreal nation is to be reintroduced to a land that claims prodigious diversity and a substantial portion of humanity within its politically disputed borders. Less than halfway into my own debut in India, I am already planning for another opening set. Bravo. Encore. And all that jazz.